He also used single-ring, equalized anchors at every belay station. To avoid making the route home to a SAR effort every weekend, Nixon and his friends kept the pitch lengths short, allowing for a rappel using a 70-meter rope at any point on the route. "That was one of our huge fears," he added, "is that you get beginners who see bolts and say 'Sport climb!' and they start up it." Nixon said he's well aware that bolted multi-pitches are notorious for attracting inexperienced sport climbers, who may get in way over their heads. "There's a big sign when you drive into town that says 'Welcome to Lillooet! Guaranteed Rugged!' and we all just saw that. "It's a railway town, logging town, maybe 1,000 people," said Nixon. The team would stay in Lillooet while working on the line during colder months.
The route's name came from a billboard outside the small town of Lillooet, near the crag. Some parts are maybe even slightly overhanging, and this is after you've already climbed 19 pitches."Ĭlimbers then come out onto a lower angle upper ridge, with a variety of easy rambling interspersed with a couple of 5.9 sections, culminating in the last pitch, 'The Crown.' "It's this incredible 5.9 way above the valley, just perfect vertical-limestone jug pulling to the top," Nixon said. "Then you hit this big headwall at pitch 19, and all of the sudden you're looking at five pitches of steep 5.10. "The first 19 pitches are slightly lower angle, but there are these beautiful gray, flowstone-y, stucco, limestone slab pitches interspersed with steep walls, going up 'snakes & ladders'-style," he said. The crux headwall features three 5.10d pitches in a row (Pitch 22 to 24), and the route overall is fairly sustained, with nearly 1/3 of the 33 pitches rated 5.10 (though Nixon added that the pitches still need to be consensus-graded). "People look at it and see some easy climbing and dismiss it as a bunch of easy rambling but I would say that's not the case at all," Nixon said. Nixon stressed that, although fully bolted, the route was much more of an alpine climb than a sport climb. Kate Naus on the headwall section, pitch 22 5.10d. "It's limestone, so it's a lot more conducive for bolts, there aren't many trad routes there either," he added. While Marble Canyon is a well-known ice climbing area, there aren't many established rock routes in the park, Nixon told Climbing. Lengthwise, this Grade V route is even longer than most Yosemite big-wall classics, including the Nose (VI 5.9 C2 3,000 feet). But Guaranteed Rugged blasts these routes away by over 1,000 feet.
There are longer routes in Mexico, such as El Potrero Chico's Time Wave Zero (5.12a), a 2,300-footer. The tallest bolted route in the United States is likely Flyboys, an 18-pitch 5.9 in Washington that clocks in at 1,800 feet. Their 33-pitch limestone line, Guaranteed Rugged (5.10d), is now the longest bolted route on the continent, and by a significant margin. Brent Nixon and his fiancee Lisa Newhook, along with friends Sean Draper and Kate Naus, finished the project on May 22, clipping the chains on nearly three years of work.
#PROJECT CANVAS LIFE ROUTE CODE#
If your ids are uniquely identifiable and different from strings like active (like suppose an ID is all numbers or always contains some numbers), then you can code a regex for the ID that would only match your id values and would not match regular words like `active.Ĭode your wildcard route to individually check for things it should not match and call next() to continue routing to other routes.This article originally appeared on Climbingįour Canadian climbers have put up a monstrous 3,500-foot route at Marble Canyon in British Columbia-and it's completely bolt-protected. But, note that this means that your id value can never be named active. That gives the more specific route a chance to match before the wildcard route gets to take the request. In this case, you would put router.get("/project/active". Very carefully order your routes from the most specific to the least specific. Then, these two route handlers will never conflict. In this particular case, you would change one of your two URLs to something unique such as /project/id/:id and /project/active or /project/:id and /activeproject. ) route matches first and takes the request.ĭon't design or declare conflicting routes that might both match a particular URL. Since routes are matched in Express in the order they are declared, your router.get("/project/:id". So, /project/anything will match that, including /project/active. In this route definition: router.get("/project/:id".
Your wildcard route with :id in it is greedy and is matching everything including the /project/active URL.